Pocket Flap and Wonky Mouth
Apparently, it takes around 180 hours to make a bespoke tailored jacket. The course ‘Tailoring for Men and Women’, which I’ve just finished at Morley College, teaches the basics in 3 hours of every Tuesday for 11 weeks. Using a combination of three tailoring methods – custom, machine and fusible – students produce a half-jacket sample including pockets, canvas (the bit that doesn’t show but acts as a kind of skeleton), sleeves with shoulders pads, lining and buttonholes. Gulp!
But here’s the first attempt at a pocket. Practice makes perfect, eh?
I’d been looking for a course like this for some time. Although being self-taught has served me fine when it comes to dressmaking, I’d imagined tailoring to be a dark art, not something you can pick up using blogs and books alone. I enrolled with some trepidation: the course stipulated that intermediate sewing skills were essential. Were mine up to scratch? Would I lag behind or get confused by terminology (“er, Miss, what is a whipstitch?!”). Will I be exposed as not knowing my arse from my shaped elbow?!
I arrived to a full class and a mixture: mostly of sewing enthusiasts looking to take their skills to a next level, a couple of fashion students, a couple of professionals including a wardrobe mistress and a textile expert who sells her work at craft fairs. Our tutor, Claudette Davis-Bonnick, a tailor and pattern cutter of great experience, explained that tailoring is about building structure into all the important places. But you begin with a quality 100% wool that can be shrunken and stretched as necessary. The way you then handle this fabric and press it is just as important as the way you cut and sew it. Think molly-coddling, not throwing it around like a pizza dough!
As the course progressed to the practical, Claudette gave many tips and explanations as to why things are done a particular way. This was an aspect to the course I very much valued. Not only do you benefit from a wealth of someone else’s experience, I personally find that when someone backs up their method with a reason, the message gets imprinted in my memory so that I hardly need to take notes. For example, I’d always assumed that on a shoulder pad, one end is pretty much the same as the other. In fact, in a typical, semi-circular shoulder pad, there is a flatter, pointy end like the leg of a croissant and a more rounded, plump end like that of a Cornish pasty (I’m starving, can you tell?!). The elongated end goes on the back, the plump bit goes at the front. It’s plump because its job is to fill in the hollow of the shoulder!
I’m missing the course already. I loved being a student again, especially as Morley has a bustling, stimulating environment like of the colleges of youth! In the cafeteria, I was introduced to Sweet Potato Pakora Sarnies: I’m thinking of re-enrolling just to get me some more of them! And I’ll really miss the College library. It has a well-stocked fashion section where I was able to get my mitts on textbooks I’d been reading about for ages in other blogs.
If you can get to Waterloo, I hope you too try some of Morley’s Fashion courses. There’s everything: corsages, corsetry, costume, even a Pattern Magic course (Jane reviewed it here). My class was next door to Modern Bridal and Couture Evening Wear course which we tried to spy on through the door glass. When I gatecrashed, one of the students, Suzan, kindly allowed me to photograph her perfectly fitted, flawlessly made dress (from own pattern and Liberty fabric).
Thanks to my fellow students for allowing me to take pics of their work-in-progress. And wasn’t it fun to be able to chat sewing?!
Now, if someone can just point me in the direction of carrying on alone. Do you have tailoring books or blogs that you recommend? Or is it just like dressmaking in that you start off a bit rubbish and get better with practice?