Very rarely do I look for something on the internet and don’t find it, but that was the situation when I needed a tutorial for a kickback pleat with lining. I eventually worked out what to do by staring intently at a RTW dress of mine and scratching my head.
Here’s the tutorial. Enjoy (no need to hobble in that pencil skirt no more)!
How to Sew a Back Pleat with Lining
In this demo, I’m using scraps but on a dress or skirt, you start here after you’ve attached the centre back zip but not yet sewn the seam below. The lining is loose and should be some 4cm shorter than the outer fabric.
1 Apply fusible interfacing to the pleat seam allowances of the outer fabric and lining. With the lining, you only need to interface the seam allowance, not the body of the pleat (this is why it’s a good idea to keep scraps). Use light to medium interfacing.
6 Press under seam allowances of fabric and lining on left side of pleat only (i.e. right side of garment)