Back Pleat with Lining

Very rarely do I look for something on the internet and don’t find it, but that was the situation when I needed a tutorial for a kickback pleat with lining.  I eventually worked out what to do by staring intently at a RTW dress of mine and scratching my head.  

Here’s the tutorial.  Enjoy (no need to hobble in that pencil skirt no more)!

How to Sew a Back Pleat with Lining

In this demo, I’m using scraps but on a dress or skirt, you start here after you’ve attached the centre back zip but not yet sewn the seam below.  The lining is loose and should be some 4cm shorter than the outer fabric.

1 Apply fusible interfacing to the pleat seam allowances of the outer fabric and lining.  With the lining, you only need to interface the seam allowance, not the body of the pleat (this is why it’s a good idea to keep scraps).  Use light to medium interfacing. 


2 Hem the lining


3 Apply tailor tacks at the point where the vertical and the diagonal stitching lines intersect.  Sew centre back seam to the tailor tacks.


4 Clip to 2mm of the tailor tacks


5 Pin lining to outer fabric, wrong sides together, matching seams and tailor tacks.  

6 Press under seam allowances of fabric and lining on left side of pleat only (i.e. right side of garment)



7 Pin and stitch


8 On the right side of pleat (left side of garment) flip fabric and lining right sides together and stitch down from the tailor tack 


9 Clip corner and turn right side out.


10 On the inside, place both extensions to the right (garment left) and stitch along the diagonal through all thicknesses.


11 On the left, hem so the fabric fold meets the lining.


12 Finally, hem the right side taking care when pinning so that the final fold faces down (out of view) and not to the left


13 Done And the outside: