One Nap

1 one nap

1 side napOriginally I wanted to make a day version of the Six Nap Dress with a black bodice and a tartan skirt: something weighty that would eliminate the need for many metres of fabric.  I learnt from the dress’ designer, Masayo Yasuki of dogstar clothing, that the skirt has 8 metres of organza and 6 metres of lining.  With so much silk in there, I figured there had to be something very simple and not fiddly  in the way it’s designed, otherwise surely the dress would be more expensive than it was (it retailed at £380).  But what went on in there?  Lots of deep pleats, all the same length (which wasn’t obvious to me till Stephanie pointed it out), and then two extra squares of fabric inserted, one at the front and one at the back, to give those bias dips.  It added up: two more metres in the organza than in the lining.

I had 1.5m of very cheap (but not all that nasty) white polyester lying around.  It feels soft but has weight and movement… and a slightly non-flat, puckered texture that I’ve recently noticed on quite a few H&M and TopShop garments. I attempted to tye-dye it – imagine the contrast of white against a patterned deep blue, had it worked.   Unfortunately it doesn’t get very wet, this fabric, and so the overall effect is a kind of faded blue with a few interesting patched of deeper colour which you probably can’t see.

1 insertOne difficulty I’ve encountered on this project is that most of the draping and pinning of the skirt during the experimental stage has been done with the fabric on the crossgrain, for convenience’ sake.  That way you get the width for all those pleats.  But I was never happy with the fall of the fabric so this time I cut it up into 72cm pieces and joined them.  Then I pressed up and hemmed everything.  I attached it to the bodice, pleating going a bit slapdash by this stage, and I also attached it to the long side zip.  Ah, the joy of finally being able to try it on!  Then I ripped open the original joins (one at the front and one at the back) to insert kite-shaped pieces which hang on the bias, dipping just below the hem. But they’re too small to make an impression of a deliberate style.

In a previous comment, Ruth joked that her own version of the dress is more of a Three Nap than Six.  In which case I better name this One.  I don’t think I’ve ever made anything so sloppy (inside it has the finish of a Great British Sewing Bee garment, all unfinished seams and unmatched thread!).

1 skirt

Having conceived this challenge as far back as in May, I’m keen to move on to other projects.  But this half-hearted draft isn’t a good enough note on which to exit.  So I’m going fabric shopping and maybe the right tartan or even  organza will show up.  Though I’d be much more happy to spend money on the latter if I felt I knew what I was doing.

Which I don’t!

1 foolhardy

1 1 nap

17 thoughts on “One Nap

  1. That bodice really makes the most of your curves Marijana – very flattering luv! Keep at it, I’m convinced our need to move in is what holds home sewists back. But then I guess the motivation is very different. Really enjoying the 6 nap vicariously!! X

  2. To be totally honest…I really like it! Because you’ve pointed the problems out, like the uneven colour, and the lack of dip of the inserted bias cut panel, now I can see them and I know what it feels like knowing everything that went wrong with it.
    But! When I saw the first photo, I was amazed at how beautiful those different shades of blue work together, and that you actually managed to turn it into a day dress. I think you should look at it as a different outcome, rather than a failure and finish it off to how you would normally do it.

  3. Gotta say that I had Etemi’s reaction. I like the soft colours and overall I like the skirt and the bodice looks great. Keep at it, as Lesley says. I will probably end up copying you and making my own version in the end (now that everyone else has done all of the heavy lifting!). Now that you say it, I could really see something in a tartan.

  4. I do admire your persistence. The bodice looks great but I agree the skirt is a bit of a let down. It will look fabulous in tartan (or organza) if you can get it. I remember people wearing tartan ball gowns made of silk dupion in the ’80’s may be that’s what you need (although it sounds v expensive!)

  5. Yes! The bodice looks really good. I’m not sure about the skirt either but then, what do I know? I do like the fact you’ve made a matching headband 🙂 You are one determined lady once you’ve set your mind on something aren’t you?

  6. I’ve so enjoyed watching everyone’ progress on this. Your version is lovely and very wearable, so that must be a win. In a more dramatic fabric it would be very dressy – so actually a very versatile pattern too. Bravo!

  7. I think it looks really good as a day dress – and not at all GBSB. The original looked a bit too ‘special’ to be able to wear on a regular basis but you have created a really wearable, but ‘different’, dress and I’m sure you will receive lots of compliments when you wear it.
    Well done Marijana, and I have really enjoyed watching the variations created in this challenge.

  8. I like it very much. Although I know it isn’t made of the best fabric I love the washed out blue on you, and the dear little Alice band. And while it is a very low key version of Nap 6 I think that is fine. You have something anyone would be pleased to wear. It’s very pretty. But – would I like to see you in something more dramatic and youthful – yes! I think tartan would be amazing, or organza. I hope you do another one.

  9. What is the problem here? That’s a really lovely dress. The colors are becoming, the skirt and the bodice are spot on flattering, and it’s just smashing.

    I do have materials to make another, prettier one. But I see this and think: you know, rayon challis skirt, shorten the line a bit for my proportions…I can see it much more clearly now courtesy of this. And you.
    And thanks for the challenge. It Has Been A Ton of Fun. And it did take me two years to finish the pleated shirt challenge ….

  10. Pingback: Six Napoleon, the work begins… – thedementedfairy

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