So, The Vivienne Westwood Challenge! I’ve had to postpone the deadline to a more manageable Saturday, 7th June (email your submissions any time; I stay up late!). If you’re trying to plump up the courage to make something, you may like this easy drafting project. The approach is more butchery than couture but it seems to work. You’ll end up with an asymmetric, sleeveless top (though you can add sleeves, as I will do). It’s particularly cute if you turn your fabric on the bias.
You will need:
A bodice block, copied, darts moved to waist (as in this tutorial)
1.5 – 2 metres, depending on your size (and whether or not you’d like sleeves) of lightweight check or plaid fabric. Mine is a linen/cotton blend at £6 per metre from Rolls and Rems
Plenty of paper. I often draft on packing paper that arrives stuffed into boxes of online shopping which I press with a hot, dry iron.
CHUNKY NECKLINE PLEATS TUTORIAL
You will need to make a pattern for the back too but this is relatively simple. You will need to:
1. Trace the Bodice Back Block/Sloper
2. Draw an elegant neckline: Firstly, lower the back of the neck by 5cm approx. Make the shoulder seam the same width as the front of the bodice, e.g. 6cm and join to the centre with a smooth curve.
3. Place the front pattern over the back and trace the side seam and hem so they’re the same at front and back.
4. If you have a shoulder dart in your back block, it’ll be quite reduced by the time you’ve lowered the neckline. You can sew gathering stitches here and ease this area instead of sewing a dart in the neckline.
5. Draw seam allowances and make a pattern for the back facing.
Cutting: Remember to place the grainline on bias for a looser, more draped effect.
Ask if you have any questions about sewing the top and good luck.