But Now It’s a Dress

1 but now..

1 welcome to the dollhouse

1 under my thumbnail

The dark line under my thumbnail isn’t dirt but a bruise!

I wanted fine Rouleau strips to be a key feature of my tablecloth dress, the design of which is based on a client’s gently draping number in viscose.  But I just couldn’t get the strips to turn right side out.  I tried every method – from funnelling to sewing thick thread to the inside to making them so wide that they really didn’t much resemble Rouleau strips at all. My fabric was just too tough to co-operate. I made so many, the strips gradually getting wider and wider until they no longer resembled Rouleau strips at all. After several hours of progressing in mere centimetres and in a perverse way enjoying it, my thumbs became too sore to grip and I came to my senses asking myself: if I was a costumier, would these wasted hours be tolerated by whoever was paying me? Of course not!

1 rouleau strips1 bias binding

So to Plan B which was to make bias binding instead. I cut the strips a mere 2cm wide and pressed until the finished size was 0.5cm. With this method, unlike with Rouleau strips, there is no danger of wrinkling. Even better, just as when I made the Colette Dahlia dress, the binding was used not just to construct the straps but to enclose the neckline too.  1 bodice cf

Getting into this dress is something of an intelligence test. First you step into it, put the halter neck around the back of your head, then slip on the two shoulders straps. It took me a while to master this technique.  Initially there was grappling and I’d be reminded of that scene in Absolutely Fabulous when Patsy gets lacerated on the strings of an elaborate designer lampshade!  🙂

1 go eastI hope these photos – taken in bright light of what was almost mid-day – do justice to this dress.  I love everything about it: the deep blue, the way my skin shows through the gaps (it’s a much better contrast then when the dress was white) and I love how the sun casts interesting shadows about my legs as it peers through the lacing. One advantage of this fabric being somewhat of a toughie is that it doesn’t crease as much as typical dress linen.

1 back white

The only thing that went majorly wrong is that that original back opening that goes down very sensually to the waist – shown in the pre-dye dress here – gaped open too much when I put it on: clear proof that you can’t copy a dress if you use a vastly different fabric.

So I spent some time inserting a lapped zipper and now the back looks like this.

1 back blue

1 beachyNot as sirenish but on the plus side it means I can wear a strapless bra which doesn’t at all show (I’ve had a bra that adapts to a strapless one but haven’t worn it till now).  It isn’t uncomfortable – though I seem to be slightly stooped in some pictures so I think it might take me some time to trust that it’s not going to slip down!  😯

Thanks Etemi for this most fun and creative challenge! I found the tablecloth patterning limited my choices when drafting and resulted in something not so much like the target design but just as good and certainly more wearable!

As ever, I’ve learnt a thing or two and earned the definitive feelgood dress of the summer

The deadline for Etemi’s challenge is this Saturday. I can’t wait to see what the others have done..

P.S. If you’ve lost your keys and they look like this, they’re on the beach at Greenwich!2 keys

24 thoughts on “But Now It’s a Dress

  1. This dress looks lovely! Good fix for the straps too – sometimes fabric just won’t make rouleau, however much patience trying work goes into it.

    • Thanks Pella. I guess another thing I could have done is substituted a different, lighter cotton but how nice that it wasn’t necessary.

  2. You do summer so well Marijana, it really suits you! What a stunning dress and you look so comfortable in it, Hooray for you. I’ve been marvelling at how wedding dressmakers don’t constantly stain whatever they’re working on, my teacher tells me she pricks her fingers on a daily basis – crickey OH and S issues or what. Will you sue your employer for bruised nail beds?!

    • Thank you Lesley! I love summer: it’s when I feel totally in my element and I can’t believe I’ve not yet made a move to some place where it lasts more than 2 months a year. Oh, the dresses I could wear!!

  3. It turned out fantastic Marijana! The blue looks really great, it just transforms it totally. It was a beautiful tablecloth to start with, but it works really well with the change of colour. I had the same struggle with the rouleau loops, and because mine is kind of a linen like fabric too, I even tried using iron on interfacing to stabilize it a bit, but that made it impossible to turned them out…

  4. Pingback: #usedtobeatablecloth: The construction | The Secret Costumier

  5. Vogue 1309, the Miyake twisted top, is handsome enough, but there’s always a fair amount of pulling it on, then pulling it ON.

    That is a very sweet dress. The cloth should be proud to end up there.

  6. I am very impressed with the way it has turned out. Looks really lovely. I am also somewhat amazed that you put in all this work and THEN dyed it! That would make me very nervous.

  7. Pingback: #usedtobeatablecloth: The reveal! | The Secret Costumier

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